Sail into a Greek island town off-season on a Sunday and there are usually only two things open: the bakeries and the churches. After a hike to the top of the island, we came upon what seemed like a completely deserted village. That is until we passed the small hilltop church and heard the haunting chorus of voices inside. Then down again to the sea, passing some very blasé goats, we arrived here, a welcome sight after the appetite we’d worked up. (Oh, yes, there were souvenir vendors at the harbor, hawking the island’s famous armless Venus, even though she currently resides, as she has for years, in the Louvre.)
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