I've been in some really gussied-up churches in my travels. But nothing approaches the over-the-top, golden splendor of this Co-cathedral of St. John. Because it's Malta's top tourist attraction, we got there early and as soon as the doors opened, I headed straight for the small room at the back to spend some solo time with two Caravaggios I'd never seen before. (More on this later.) Afterwards, as the tour groups slow-poked their way through the aisles, I was able to stroll around and take in much of the baroque bling. The photo above doesn't even approach the overwhelming amount of sparkling decor that's been layered and layered on this joint. (Note the Maltese crosses within the panel on the right.)
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