One of my favorite fish restaurants, which Nick and I casually refer to as “Screwdriver Fish,” is, alas, only open for lunch. But on my most recent visit to the City of the World’s Desire I was delighted to learn that the owner has opened Grifin, a dinner-only restaurant right next door. And five flights up. The menu features many of the same marvels served at “Screwdriver” (like the excellent fish soup, the sea bass cooked in parchment), supplemented by some additional standouts (the marinated sea bass remains happily in memory.) But why mince words? As good as the food is (and it really is), nothing compares to the spectacular view afforded by Grifin’s enviable position high above the Golden Horn, overlooking Old Istanbul with its panorama of mosques, minarets, Topkapi Palace and, sigh, Aya Sofya. Jay says this is the best, the most memorable meal he had in Istanbul. And I would be hard pressed to disagree.
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