Nice to get out of the city proper for a day and take the metro to this quieter suburb. A short walk from the station to the centro can take you through this peaceful park. It's in this park that the plantings for all of the city's other parks are grown. (See all of these plants in their containers, ready to be moved to their new homes.) It's also a favorite spot for joggers, for neighborhood ladies to compare notes, for this tourist just to breathe.
February 18, 2020
Habana Vieja, Cuba. February, 2012
La Bodeguita del Medio, where Hemingway used to drink mojitos (allegedly), has become a top tourist destination (aka trap) in Old Havana. Consequently the food needn’t be the best. And the prices are high. The strolling musicians are just fine. And the graffiti by thousands who wanted to leave their mark is, well, remarkable. But I do love the way that ceiling fan looks.
February 17, 2020
Coyoacán, Mexico. April, 2019
Milagros. Literally "miracles." These boards are found in just about every church in Mexico. Supplicants pin up small metal replicas of body parts, praying for health, for cures. Some, as you can see here, accompanied by notes indicating names, special requests, thanks. I put up three milagros: one for a friend's leg, one for a friend's heart, one for my own request.
February 16, 2020
Barceloneta. November, 2010
When you order Pulpo al la Gallega in the very-much-fun and very-much-local hangout Jai-Ca in Barceloneta (not far from where Las Ramblas meets the waterfront), here’s what you get. A healthy portion of sliced octopus, boiled (as they prepare it in Galicia) and enhanced with a little salsa. And slices of plain bread for (as Jay and I call them) “sopping rights.” The bread at the top that’s been rubbed with a sliced tomato is the fabled pa’ amb tomaquet that we order at every tapas spot we visit.
February 15, 2020
Coyoacán, Mexico City. April, 2019
The colors of Mexico. Just a simple stucco house I passed en route from the metro to the center of Coyoacán, a Mexico City suburb.
February 14, 2020
Tucson. April, 2013
An empty-hearted mailbox hoping for some affectionate billets doux on Saint Valentine’s Day? Maybe. You can get away with things in Tucson that wouldn’t fly in staid New England. This flight-of-fancy mailbox, for example, at a daycare center not far from the home of my friends Simon and David. Beautiful and imaginative and silly. But were I to do that at my suburban Boston home, imagine what I might be labeled. Oh, wait...
February 13, 2020
Oaxaca, Mexico. April, 2019
School kids. Catholic school kids, of course, well behaved, in their uniforms. On a school trip to the big city, waiting somewhat patiently for their teachers to accompany them into the church nearby.
February 12, 2020
Istanbul. June, 2007
I live in an Armenian-Middle Eastern neighborhood where the local grocery stores carry many, many different kinds of olives. But not as many as I found here in the huge central market in Kadıköy, an Istanbul neighborhood on the Asian side of the city. Look at all of those varieties! The Turks and the Greeks may disagree about many things, but love of olives isn’t one of them.
February 11, 2020
Oaxaca, Mexico. April, 2019
Strolling through this beautiful town, I'd emerge from a side street into a wide-open plaza. And none was more open, or more populated, than this one fronting the city's main church. Every night, this plaza was packed with people singing, dancing, playing music, just hanging out. And there seemed to be a different parade there every evening. Except, of course, on this sunset-y afternoon when I decided to take this picture.
February 10, 2020
February 9, 2020
Mexico City. March, 2019
The day I arrived in Mexico, I went straight from the Mexico City airport to my hotel, dropped things off, then hightailed it over to Angelopolitano, a restaurant my friends Donna and Emilia had recommended. And this is what I ordered, a cemita, a specialty of Puebla (where I was headed in a few days.) Whenever I visit a new country, I arrive armed with a list of things to eat, and this cemita was tops on my list. (Also on the list: fried grasshoppers.) The restaurant was so good, so welcoming and comfortable, I had dinner there all four nights I was in Mexico City.
February 8, 2020
Watertown, MA. April, 2012
The older I get, the less stuff I want hanging around. Things that I’ve acquired over the years, things I had to have, now have diminished importance and some of it is just plain clutter. My friend Ernest says that the six matching napkin rings you buy as a 20-year-old for that dinner party you think you’ll have someday? You never have it, and the rings just sit in a drawer someplace until you get rid of them. Why was I thinking this way? I was preparing for our town-wide series of yard sales and I was putting up lots of past treasures for sale once again. But this? How could I part with this? (Actually, I did part with it recently. I gave it to my friend Georgia when she moved to Massachusetts from her longtime Baltimore home. Welcome, Georgia.)
February 7, 2020
Oaxaca, Mexico. April, 2019
I was amused to see that the "don't-touch" warning sign on the golden frame in this Oaxaca church was in English. Locals would know better.
February 6, 2020
Istanbul. June, 2007
There’s no getting around it. Istanbul is a hilly city. Sometimes ridiculously so. Especially if you’re in a taxi from the airport trying to wend its way through the steep and narrow streets (alleys) of Beyoğlu on its way to your hotel. On foot, it’s another story. Steep sidewalks are stepped or scored to aid in traction. Or for a more aesthetic climb, there’s this beautiful staircase. Henri Cartier-Bresson admired these Kamondo Stairs back in 1965 and shot them beautifully. And so have many others since.
February 5, 2020
Coyoacán, Mexico City. April, 2019
The colors of Mexico. This striking blue bathes one side of artist Frida Kahlo's house in this suburb of Mexico City. I didn't get on line to go inside (I didn't need to see every teacup, every easel.) But hundred of others did. Not far from here is the house of this neighborhood's other celebrity, Leon Trotsky. His paint job is, understandably, more demure.
February 4, 2020
Boston. May, 2012
OK, not a good photo. But I couldn’t pass up this kickline of nuns on display at the Franciscan Center in downtown Boston. I especially like that they are all young, some alarmingly so. And that their relative sizes are somewhat off. I was taught by Benedictines (the order not the liqueur) which seem to be represented by the doll fourth from the left. How about you? (There was a second showcase with a miniature Pope John Paul II and an even tinier Mother Teresa, but I was shaking so much the photo I took is horribly blurred.) I also like the aerodynamic look of the nun second from the left.
February 3, 2020
February 2, 2020
Jaimanitas, Habana, Cuba. February, 2012
I’m tired of the word community. I think it’s overused to such an extent that it has been robbed of any meaning. Neighborhood is more like it. And this neighborhood, not far from the highly secured Castro complex, is a fine example of the meaning of the word. The residents have followed artist José Fuster’s lead and plastered their homes, walls, street corners with mosaics of every stripe. Consequently, first-time visitors tend to lose their grip on reality and enter a very surreal, well, neighborhood.
February 1, 2020
Oaxaca, Mexico. April, 2019
Before I went to Mexico, my friend David told me about the gold in the churches. Wowee! Not only shiny and bright, but carefully maintained. Here's a crew in a Oaxaca church, spiffing up a side altar, bringing it back to its original rich and sparkling beauty.
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