February 29, 2020

Coyoacán, Mexico. April, 2019


Nice to get out of the city proper for a day and take the metro to this quieter suburb. A short walk from the station to the centro can take you through this peaceful park. It's in this park that the plantings for all of the city's other parks are grown. (See all of these plants in their containers, ready to be moved to their new homes.) It's also a favorite spot for joggers, for neighborhood ladies to compare notes, for this tourist just to breathe.

February 28, 2020

Habana, Cuba. February, 2012


I was warned by our tour guide not to venture into the “dangerous” neighborhood of Havana’s central market, the Mercado de Cuatro Caminos. Too late! I’d already been there earlier in the day. And mucho happy that I had been. No other tourists around. Just Habaneros doing their daily shopping from whatever happened to be available that day. If the truck arrived with a certain kind of produce, it was up for sale. If not, not. Potatoes, I was told, only make a rare appearance here. Look at that great old scale!

February 27, 2020

Mexico City. April, 2019


Visitors to the city's famed archeology museum just can't help themselves when it comes to taking photos in front of this huge sundial or sacrificial altar or whatever it is. Truth be told: The museum is exhausting. So many rooms, so many cultures represented. Admirable, of course. And the city's main tourist attraction. But I had to sit down a lot.

February 26, 2020

Centro Habana, Cuba. February, 2012


As soon as you wander away from the tourist-heavy streets of Old Havana and approach this neighborhood where most of the city’s residents live, the brightly restored colors are no longer in evidence. Things get a little funkier. And, for me, much more real and interesting. This is one of the streets I was warned not to walk down because it was likely that a piece of crumbling building might fall on me. I listened politely to the well-meant warnings...and then headed right down the street as soon as I took this picture. Much more interesting than the Disneyfied tourist sites filled with, well, tourists.

February 25, 2020

Puebla, Mexico. April, 2019


At each market I visited in Mexico, there was always at least one (usually more) booth selling "magic" votive candles, herbs and potions to deal with any number of personal issues. Trouble with your boss. Snagging that guy you have a crush on. Anxiety. Mother-in-law annoyances. And so many more. Here's an assortment from the market in Puebla. (Full disclosure: I walked many blocks to this market, not to find a candle solution to any problem...but to sample the city's famed cemitas sandwich. I was not disappointed. But if I had been, I'm sure there would have been a candle to deal with my dismay.)

February 24, 2020

Jaimanitas, Havana, Cuba. February, 2012


Everywhere you look in Cuba, even in the heavily mosaic’d neighborhood of Jaimanitas, you find remnants of that moment in the country’s past when Americans were living high on the hog, filling Havana’s casinos, driving their snazzy cars down the avenidas. When the Revolution took place and Castro took over, the Americans fled. Their cars remained. Many have been beautifully refurbished and still grace the streets. Others, like this one, simply languish.

February 23, 2020

Mexico City. April, 2019


This little lady has just been baptized at the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadalupe, and she doesn't look too happy about the inconvenience. In fact, I think I was more excited about it than she was.

February 22, 2020

February 21, 2020

Mexico City. April, 2019


There is no escaping Catholicism in Mexico. I took a bus from Mexico City's main terminal to the ruins an hour north of the city, and this votive assemblage is what the driver had fronting his windshield.

February 20, 2020

Centro Habana, Cuba. February, 2012


Just hanging out here in the less gussied-up section of Havana. There’s more poverty here in Centro than in Old Havana (see yesterday's entry). All through this downtown neighborhood and all along the sea at the Malecón, the buildings were in various levels of disrepair (some were crumbling into the street as I passed), but they still suggested an affluent past with their stained glass, their architectural details, their wrought iron fancies. 

February 19, 2020

Oaxaca, Mexico. April, 2019


Upon entering one of the many, many churches in Oaxaca, this notice: "Out of respect, turn off your cellphone in the church. To speak with God, you don't need it."

February 18, 2020

Habana Vieja, Cuba. February, 2012


La Bodeguita del Medio, where Hemingway used to drink mojitos (allegedly), has become a top tourist destination (aka trap) in Old Havana. Consequently the food needn’t be the best. And the prices are high. The strolling musicians are just fine. And the graffiti by thousands who wanted to leave their mark is, well, remarkable. But I do love the way that ceiling fan looks.

February 17, 2020

Coyoacán, Mexico. April, 2019


Milagros. Literally "miracles." These boards are found in just about every church in Mexico. Supplicants pin up small metal replicas of body parts, praying for health, for cures. Some, as you can see here, accompanied by notes indicating names, special requests, thanks. I put up three milagros: one for a friend's leg, one for a friend's heart, one for my own request.

February 16, 2020

Barceloneta. November, 2010


When you order Pulpo al la Gallega in the very-much-fun and very-much-local hangout Jai-Ca in Barceloneta (not far from where Las Ramblas meets the waterfront), here’s what you get. A healthy portion of sliced octopus, boiled (as they prepare it in Galicia) and enhanced with a little salsa. And slices of plain bread for (as Jay and I call them) “sopping rights.” The bread at the top that’s been rubbed with a sliced tomato is the fabled pa’ amb tomaquet that we order at every tapas spot we visit.

February 15, 2020

Coyoacán, Mexico City. April, 2019


The colors of Mexico. Just a simple stucco house I passed en route from the metro to the center of Coyoacán, a Mexico City suburb.

February 14, 2020

Tucson. April, 2013


An empty-hearted mailbox hoping for some affectionate billets doux on Saint Valentine’s Day? Maybe. You can get away with things in Tucson that wouldn’t fly in staid New England. This flight-of-fancy mailbox, for example, at a daycare center not far from the home of my friends Simon and David. Beautiful and imaginative and silly. But were I to do that at my suburban Boston home, imagine what I might be labeled. Oh, wait...

February 13, 2020

Oaxaca, Mexico. April, 2019


School kids. Catholic school kids, of course, well behaved, in their uniforms. On a school trip to the big city, waiting somewhat patiently for their teachers to accompany them into the church nearby.

February 12, 2020

Istanbul. June, 2007


I live in an Armenian-Middle Eastern neighborhood where the local grocery stores carry many, many different kinds of olives. But not as many as I found here in the huge central market in Kadıköy, an Istanbul neighborhood on the Asian side of the city. Look at all of those varieties! The Turks and the Greeks may disagree about many things, but love of olives isn’t one of them.

February 11, 2020

Oaxaca, Mexico. April, 2019


Strolling through this beautiful town, I'd emerge from a side street into a wide-open plaza. And none was more open, or more populated, than this one fronting the city's main church. Every night, this plaza was packed with people singing, dancing, playing music, just hanging out. And there seemed to be a different parade there every evening. Except, of course, on this sunset-y afternoon when I decided to take this picture.

February 10, 2020

Istanbul. June, 2007


Two words known worldwide: Coca-Cola and Macintosh. The second seen here on a sign in a back alley of Istanbul’s hip Beyoğlu neighborhood, populated I feel certain, with plenty of Mac users.

February 9, 2020

Mexico City. March, 2019


The day I arrived in Mexico, I went straight from the Mexico City airport to my hotel, dropped things off, then hightailed it over to Angelopolitano, a restaurant my friends Donna and Emilia had recommended. And this is what I ordered, a cemita, a specialty of Puebla (where I was headed in a few days.) Whenever I visit a new country, I arrive armed with a list of things to eat, and this cemita was tops on my list. (Also on the list: fried grasshoppers.) The restaurant was so good, so welcoming and comfortable, I had dinner there all four nights I was in Mexico City.

February 8, 2020

Watertown, MA. April, 2012


The older I get, the less stuff I want hanging around. Things that I’ve acquired over the years, things I had to have, now have diminished importance and some of it is just plain clutter. My friend Ernest says that the six matching napkin rings you buy as a 20-year-old for that dinner party you think you’ll have someday? You never have it, and the rings just sit in a drawer someplace until you get rid of them. Why was I thinking this way? I was preparing for our town-wide series of yard sales and I was putting up lots of past treasures for sale once again. But this? How could I part with this? (Actually, I did part with it recently. I gave it to my friend Georgia when she moved to Massachusetts from her longtime Baltimore home. Welcome, Georgia.)

February 7, 2020

Oaxaca, Mexico. April, 2019


I was amused to see that the "don't-touch" warning sign on the golden frame in this Oaxaca church was in English. Locals would know better.

February 6, 2020

Istanbul. June, 2007


There’s no getting around it. Istanbul is a hilly city. Sometimes ridiculously so. Especially if you’re in a taxi from the airport trying to wend its way through the steep and narrow streets (alleys) of Beyoğlu on its way to your hotel. On foot, it’s another story. Steep sidewalks are stepped or scored to aid in traction. Or for a more aesthetic climb, there’s this beautiful staircase. Henri Cartier-Bresson admired these Kamondo Stairs back in 1965 and shot them beautifully. And so have many others since.

February 5, 2020

Coyoacán, Mexico City. April, 2019


The colors of Mexico. This striking blue bathes one side of artist Frida Kahlo's house in this suburb of Mexico City. I didn't get on line to go inside (I didn't need to see every teacup, every easel.) But hundred of others did. Not far from here is the house of this neighborhood's other celebrity, Leon Trotsky. His paint job is, understandably, more demure.

February 4, 2020

Boston. May, 2012


OK, not a good photo. But I couldn’t pass up this kickline of nuns on display at the Franciscan Center in downtown Boston. I especially like that they are all young, some alarmingly so. And that their relative sizes are somewhat off. I was taught by Benedictines (the order not the liqueur) which seem to be represented by the doll fourth from the left. How about you? (There was a second showcase with a miniature Pope John Paul II and an even tinier Mother Teresa, but I was shaking so much the photo I took is horribly blurred.) I also like the aerodynamic look of the nun second from the left.

February 3, 2020

February 2, 2020

Jaimanitas, Habana, Cuba. February, 2012


I’m tired of the word community. I think it’s overused to such an extent that it has been robbed of any meaning. Neighborhood is more like it. And this neighborhood, not far from the highly secured Castro complex, is a fine example of the meaning of the word. The residents have followed artist José Fuster’s lead and plastered their homes, walls, street corners with mosaics of every stripe. Consequently, first-time visitors tend to lose their grip on reality and enter a very surreal, well, neighborhood.

February 1, 2020

Oaxaca, Mexico. April, 2019


Before I went to Mexico, my friend David told me about the gold in the churches. Wowee! Not only shiny and bright, but carefully maintained. Here's a crew in a Oaxaca church, spiffing up a side altar, bringing it back to its original rich and sparkling beauty.