A Ukranian colleague of Jay’s had told him that Odessa was like Gloucester (MA) only with an opera house. So, of course, we had to find the opera house. And we did. But the real treat was hearing a remarkable tenor practicing an aria with his teacher on piano behind this window at the back of the building. It sounded like Verdi; Otello was on the schedule for that night. But whatever it was, it was magical. It’s unexpected moments like these that make travel so wonderful and remain so vividly in memory.