Reggio Calabria, Italy. May, 1988

Biscotti X. (Pronounced “beece-KO-tea EEEKS.”) When I traveled back to Italy to help Nick with research for his Great Italian Desserts book, I had already been to that beautiful country four times. This time, however, a new perspective: seeing Italy from the kitchens of its bakeries, restaurants and pastry shops. We were warmly welcomed by chefs and pastry masters throughout the country, watching and photographing as they showed how they created their signature products. These X-cookies, made in the Sicilian tradition (almond paste “dough” wrapped around a citron jam, rolled out into a long “snake,” cut into two-inch lengths, then severed one-third of the way on each end, the ends then spread to form the X) were a simple standout, shown to us by Giulio Nostro of the Pasticceria Margherita, one of the nicest men in the world. Marks the spot and hits the spot, this cookie.

Reggio Calabria, Italy. May, 1988

I had been to Italy a number of times already. But this time offered a perspective completely different from any of the previous trips. My friend Nick was gearing up to do the research for his Great Italian Desserts and asked me to be his “production assistant,” so to speak. He grew up speaking Italian. I had more practical experience traveling in Italy. Done! He took notes. I took photos. And what a great way to see the country this time -- through the kitchens of its restaurants and pastry shops. We were welcomed behind the scenes by the warmest people throughout Italy, people who seemed genuinely interested in sharing their traditions and professional secrets. Seen here, Giulio Nostro of the Pasticceria Margherita shows us how he shapes a rolled-out almond-paste dough, fitting it into a mold to prepare the traditional Easter lamb cake in southern Italy. 

Reggio Calabria, Italy. May, 1988

At Easter time each year, Italian bakers make their once-a-year holiday specialties. And none is more special than the pascal lamb, molded of almond paste, filled with cake slices and a somewhat bitter citrus preserve known as confitura di cedro, then enhanced with a coating of icing/crushed-meringue (or something) “fleece” and dusted with powdered sugar. Here’s the naked lamb before enhancement, crafted by a really nice Italian baker we met named Giulio Nostro at his Pasticceria Margherita.

Reggio Calabria, Italy. May, 1988

I had been to Italy a number of times already. But this time offered a perspective completely different from any of the previous trips. My friend Nick was gearing up to do the research for his Great Italian Desserts and asked me to be his “production assistant,” so to speak. He grew up speaking Italian. I had more practical experience traveling in Italy. Done! He took notes. I took photos. And what a great way to see the country this time -- through the kitchens of its restaurants and pastry shops. We were welcomed behind the scenes by the warmest people throughout Italy, people who seemed genuinely interested in sharing their traditions and professional secrets. Seen here, Giulio Nostro of the Pasticceria Margherita shows us how he shapes a rolled-out almond-paste dough, fitting it into a mold to prepare the traditional Easter lamb cake in southern Italy. 

Reggio Calabria, Italy. May, 1988

At Easter time each year, Italian bakers make their once-a-year holiday specialties. And none is more special than the pascal lamb, molded of almond paste, filled with cake slices and a somewhat bitter citrus preserve known as confitura di cedro, then enhanced with a coating of icing/crushed-meringue (or something) “fleece” and dusted with powdered sugar. Here’s the naked lamb before enhancement, crafted by a really nice Italian baker we met named Giulio Nostro at his Pasticceria Margherita.

Reggio Calabria, Italy. May, 1988

Biscotti X. (Pronounced “beece-KO-tea EEEKS.”) When I traveled back to Italy to help Nick with research for his Great Italian Desserts book, I had already been to that beautiful country four times. This time, however, a new perspective: seeing Italy from the kitchens of its bakeries, restaurants and pastry shops. We were warmly welcomed by chefs and pastry masters throughout the country, watching and photographing as they showed how they created their signature products. These X-cookies, made in the Sicilian tradition (almond paste “dough” wrapped around a citron jam, rolled out into a long “snake,” cut into two-inch lengths, then severed one-third of the way on each end, the ends then spread to form the X) were a simple standout, shown to us by Giulio Nostro of the Pasticceria Margherita, one of the nicest men in the world. Marks the spot and hits the spot, this cookie.