July 9, 2012

Istanbul. October, 2011

Laz cooking, aka Black Sea cuisine, comes from the northeast section of Turkey around Trabzon. When I expressed an interest in trying some Laz dishes on my most recent visit to the City of the World’s Desire, food enthusiast and blogger extraordinaire Cenk offered to take Jay and me to Klemuri, a cosy spot in a backstreet near Taksim Square that offered an assortment of such dishes. Like this one: muhlama, a fondue-like creation made with cornmeal, cheese and lots of butter. Yes, please. Also on the table that wonderful lunch: fried hamsı (the Black Sea anchovies then happily in season); stuffed chard leaves with yogurt; a molded bulgur pilaf; a mixed salad of fried bean pickles, potatoes, onions and walnuts; a regional kind of kibbee and much more. Most satisfying and memorable? Finally meeting Cenk and enjoying the pleasure of his company and his kind generosity.


  1. It's 1:00 p.m. and my tummy is growling for lunch. I should know better than to read your blog entries on an empty stomach! Now I want to run out and ask my local Turkish döner chef where I can find muhlama the way they make it in the beautiful Black Sea resort of Trabzon. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWaRwz-fRgs

  2. Instanbul has always attracted me. Sounds delicious.

  3. The pleasure was all mine! By the way, I think I've found the perfect place for your next visit.