As my Italian friend Antonio from Lucca once reminded me when I’d questioned why we were seeing so many prostitutes hanging out near bridges in a devoutly Catholic country like Italy: “In Italy, we have the pope...and Cicciolina.” And, he seemed to imply, most Italians waver somewhere in between. I am not drawn to any organized faith myself, but I do like to see outward manifestations of others’ devotion as I travel through Italy. Like this one on the island of Elba. It was on the outside of a wall surrounding a military installation. Far from any bridges.