When we stopped in Messina in 2011, I arrived at the municipal museum eager to see the two Caravaggios inside. Closed Wednesdays. But this time, my stop in Messina (not on a Wednesday) allowed me to see the gloriously restored paintings, beautifully displayed for the first time since their restoration. Here’s the Raising of Lazarus. Magnificent. And I was the only one in the gallery. Perhaps the only one in the entire small museum. Except the guards, who were all outside in the courtyard smoking during my entire visit. Sicily.