On a 1972 visit to the French Riviera, I remember having a grilled dorade meal at a tiny, family-run restaurant overlooking Monaco’s harbor. Long gone that lovely restaurant, and the stretch of seaside street where it lay is now super-developed into high-rise, pricey real estate. But the dorade lives on, or maybe lives isn’t le mot just. Here are some on offer in the central marché in Cannes seen on a more recent Riviera visit. Sauvage no less.