In the North End of Boston, the city's traditional Italian neighborhood, there is a wonderful pizza place where dozens of people wait on line for unsurpassed thick-crust slices. Also for arancine, spinach calzone, panzarelle and other Southern Italian delights. The decor is "high school cafeteria," ditto the noise level. It's called Galleria Umberto and it is a landmark. When Dr. Blake and I were in Napoli recently, we went to the original Galleria Umberto, a gilded-age arcade of upscale shops with beautiful tilework floors and -- look up! -- this magnificent iron-and-glass ceiling. No pizza though.