OK, I like baklava as much as the next guy. Probably more. And nowhere is it better than in Istanbul. But I do have limits. For example, these "portraits" made of tinted pieces of the rich pastry on display in one of Istanbul's best baklava shops, Güllüoglu. On the left, Ataturk (the founder of modern Turkey and a leader so revered that public criticism of him is a punishable crime.) On the right, under the Turkish flag, an earlier leader, the sultan Mehmet the Conqueror. (Or is it Suleyman the Magnificent?) For a look at some of Güllüoglu's more traditional baklava, click here.