I am one week into my traditional annual "eating plan" (none dare say diet) between Thanksgiving and Christmas. I avoid flour, sugar, refined carbs. Or at least I try to. Otherwise I will eat all of the hundreds of sweets that seem to materialize everywhere in this month of holiday prep. One dish that would be most welcome on my table this month is seen here at Korfez, a now-closed but happily remembered restaurant just a short boat trip up the Bosphorus from Istanbul proper: whole sea bass baked in salt, then filleted and served just so. Who needs cookies and caramel corn?