Believe it or not, you are looking at one of my favorite restaurants in Istanbul. A few tables, some rope stools, an umbrella here and there. And some of the freshest and best-prepared fish in town. It ought to be fresh. The establishment is set up behind the Karakoy fish market, just steps from the waters where the Bosphorus meets the Golden Horn. It’s popular with people from all walks of life, locals mostly and a few adventurous tourists who’ve read about it. The first time Nick and I went (after a morning visit to Topkapi Palace), he had hamsi (fried Black Sea anchovies), I had pan-fried mackerel. Mmmm-mmm. Of course we returned, this time both of us getting the hamsi, a little salad, a lot of atmosphere. As I think about my upcoming return visit with Jay to the City of the World’s Desire, I wonder just how many lunches we can fit in here this time.