This photo tells you all you need to know about Milan. The fashion. The duomo. Well, not all, but most. Every important designer has a showroom along the Via Montenapoleone. The duomo is at the center of everything, even if the Church no longer is. My first visit here was on the cheap, staying in the clean but inexpensive Pensione Kennedy not far from the centro. I visited Peck, the fancy food store and admired the goods available, especially their cafe salad bar featuring boiled octopus. Leonardo’s Last Supper, of course. And when I approached La Scala to check out the storied opera house, I noticed two American guys trying to get into the building. They spoke no Italian; I did. So I helped them, partly, I admit, because one was the actor John Glover (on a break from filming White Nights) and the other, his boyfriend, a featured dancer in Broadway’s La Cage Aux Folles, introduced to me as “the lovely Nicole.” I told Glover I’d seen him onstage in NYC in Linda Her and The Fairy Garden, to which he responded, “No one saw that!” I scored points, I guess, because we palled around for the afternoon as they bought sweaters at Missoni and then treated me to lunch at the excellent Bagutta. We parted at evening, and I’ve never seen them again. Except on screen.