What is it about fried seafood that makes it so, so good? Seen here, a combo plate at Morse Fish, the oldest fish market in Boston. This extremely casual fish store and fry-up in the city’s South End has been serving up plates of deep-fried goodness for over a century. (Its remaining firmly in place since 1903 as the neighborhood storefronts all around it have become gentrified and somewhat chic is a testament to the freshness of its fish, the loyalty of its following.) Morse Fish used to be a regular stop for me in younger days, but somehow, as I moved further from town, it slipped from memory. Until last year. When my friend James asked me where I’d like to have an easy “on-the-day” birthday dinner, it didn’t take me long to decide. A mixed two-way combo special of calamari and clam strips, accompanied by french fries (hidden beneath), tartar sauce and cole slaw, all for the low-low price of $10.95. Mmmm. Thank you, James.