The ancient palace of the Emperor Diocletian still exists in various states of ruin throughout the Croatian city of Split that has grown up around (and in) it. A cafe’s patio will have a Corinthian column at its edge. A pastry shop shelters in the original palace walls. Arches and their supporting structures lean into (relatively) modern apartment buildings. The original reception hall to the palace is its best preserved section. Standing in it, looking up as here, I wondered what noble Roman leaders, what heros of antiquity had stood there before.