I love the reflected autumn light here against the beautiful Riviera pastel buildings. For me, even more than the sea, these colors, dappled as they are by gentle sunshine, evoke the South of France. So many of the sights that I’d enjoyed in Monaco 40 years earlier were gone when I recently visited again. The charming small train station, gone. The waterside, family-run seafood restaurant where I’d had grilled daurade served on top of an arrangement of twigs, gone. Now it’s all skyscrapers, tidy streets and sidewalks, displays of wealth. But the colors and the light endure.