When I lived here in the 1980s, McDonald’s was just attempting to make inroads with its first Italian outlet near Rome’s Spanish Steps. (The salad bar featured octopus. Just saying.) Well, in the 25 years since, the gates of hell have burst wide open, allowing all of the multinational fast-food chains access to a country that still ranks high in appreciating slow food. On a stroll to visit Bernini’s Ecstasy of Saint Teresa, I came upon this sign indicating where I could enjoy Il Whopper, if I so desired. Non, grazie.