When our boat docked in Casablanca, we hot-footed it to the train station and headed to Rabat, the nation's capital, one hour away. And weren't we glad we did. Few tourists. Not one beggar or "guide" approached us. A terrific lunch which got us hooked on chicken tagine with olives and preserved lemons. And a great market where you could buy your own olives from this vendor and make that tagine at home.