On my first trip to Italy, my late friend Dali was the best guide possible. She'd lived there for years and knew me well enough to know what I'd like to see: Rome, Florence, Venice, Padova, Siena and, here, the Adriatic seaside town of Ancona. I remember finding sponges on the beach. And I remember wondering why, on this hot day, no one was in the water or even at the beach. Dali explained that after September 1, Italians don't go to the beach. Period. True?