It seems a shame to have this photo in black and white (though it does look very Beat, no?) Especially with the colorful surroundings both on the walls and on the plates here at Roberto Santibañez’ Manhattan outlet of his successful Brooklyn restaurante. This was my first time dining at Fonda’s new location and it was superb. (I’d visited the as-yet-unopened space on the February night before leaving for Cuba, but that was just to visit our friends, to wish them well on their new venture...and for Nick, seen here, to work some “new home” secret ceremony with a broom, a handful of salt, some other talismanic elements.) This August meal featured duck zarape, ensalada de sandia, grilled striped bass, two kinds of beans (red and black), rice, avocado cheesecake, mmmmm. At a nearby table was return diner Rachael Ray, who, whatever else she may be, knows a good restaurant when she finds one.