Sacred and profane. As Antonio, my friend from Lucca, once told me when I asked how the country that housed the Vatican could also have a porn star as an elected politician: "In Italy, we have the Pope and Cicciolina." Well, nowhere do the sacred and profane mix more comfortably than here in Napoli. Organized crime continues to flourish, as do a remarkable number of manifestations of religious devotion, like this family shrine here. Behind bars, just to be safe.