I am not an envious person. Having clarified that, let me just say that my friend Nick is about to head back to Istanbul in a few days. Which means that he'll be enjoying these fried Black Sea anchovies at our favorite waterside, outdoor "restaurant" just next to the fish market along the Golden Horn. We first found this place together in 2007 and have been back separately several times since. I can almost taste those lovely fish every time I look at this photo, taken when Jay and I most recently visited. As you can see, we both ordered the same thing. Hold the onion.