I’m always amazed when I see fast-food joints thriving in places that already have such good food available at all times. I was living in Rome when the first McDonald’s opened there in the Piazza di Spagna. There was an uproar among a certain contingent who didn’t want Italian food sullied by these American polluters. But guess who won? Ditto, Paris, Barcelona. And in this neighborhood west of downtown Lisbon (whose name is Portuguese for Bethlehem), look who’s here! Fortunately you can refuse to follow the arrow to the right and cross the street instead, under the blue awning, to the rightly famous Pastéis de Belém and have an excellent coffee and a few pastéis de nata.