We’d taken the famed tram #28 up, up, up from downtown to the Graça neighborhood to a small family-owned restaurant, the Churrasco da Graça, that I’d heard about on Chowhound. It was terrific. We were the only tourists there, it seemed, and we ate as the Lisboetas eat: meat, meat and more meat. Of course, maybe that was because we ordered the mixed grill. Afterwards, when we stepped outside to the small park across the square, this was the panorama that greeted us below. Lisbon is such a beautiful city. By night, by day, any time.