“First you take a leek,” as the old joke recipe goes. And here at one of my favorite markets in the world, you’ve got quite a choice. Look at how beautiful they are. Imagine the wonderful potato-leek soup you could make from these. Alas, whenever we are in Montréal, we never have access to a real kitchen, and so our trips to the marché are somewhat limited to visual enjoyment. But it is fun to see what’s on offer. And then to eat at one of our favorite restaurants in the evening, selecting choices from what we know is in season.