At my friend Nick's Easter table, a rich international roster of guests. Paolo from Urbino. Marco from Mexico City. And there between them in the striking straw hat with black velvet ribbon, Marilyn from Ohio. One of the chicest people in Manhattan, Marilyn is also one of the most open and down-to-earth. When she arrived, she told us that she was leaving her hat on because she hadn't had a chance to blacken her roots. I offered her a Sharpie that I had in my bag, but she declined. Oh so politely.